Keri: Hey, you got something. Finally, he caught a fish on a drop shot. Glenn: Here we go. Keri: It’s a little smallmouth. Glenn: We’ll take it. A little smallmouth on a drop shot. That’ll do the trick. Hey, folks. Glenn May here with BassResource. com. And today, let’s talk about drop shotting,the basics. This is the essentials that you need to besuccessful with the drop shot rig. Now, you guys who’ve been fishing drop shotsfor a while, this pertains to you as wellbecause there’s some little tips and tricksyou’re gonna pick up on in here that you maynot have heard before that’s gonna make yoube more successful on the water. So drop shotting, the technique, first offis you make sure you’re using it in the rightconditions. It is not a type of technique to use to covera lot of water and for finding fish. Drop shotting is used once you’ve locatedthe fish, you know they’re sitting on a pieceof structure or cover, and you wanna milkthem out of that. Usually, when the bite isn’t very good, it’swhen the fish is in a neutral to negativebiting mode. Or you’ve gone through that area, you’ve pickedup a bunch of fish that are actively chasingdown crankbaits and spinnerbaits and you’vecaught those. You wanna go back through that area and methodicallypick it apart to catch even more fish. That’s when the drop shot shines. That’s when it really does well. If you’re trying to find fish with a dropshot, you might get a little frustrated withit because it’s not as effective as doingthat, simply because you’re fishing really,really slow. And if you’re not in an area where the fishare, you’re gonna spend a lot of time castingand not catching. So let’s start off with the equipment here. What we’re using is spinning gear, spinningoutfit for many, many reasons. It starts off with the hook. Drop shot, you’re typically using just a size1 or 1/0 hook. This is a 1. This is a spin shot hook. Looks like that. It spins. If I can get it to spin, see that?And it doesn’t spin the line. It twists. It doesn’t twist the line. And I have a spin shot for two reasons. Number one, eliminates twist. The other reason is that it allows the baitto move freely. And I can’t stress this enough. With drop shotting, you need that bait tomove as natural as possible. This is why I’m using the finesse hand-pouredlure. It just wiggles and moves naturally in thewater. It’s very flexible and flimsy. See that?That’s what you want because you need a verynatural, natural presentation. So with a small hook like that, a size 1 or1/0 hook, it’s a thin wire hook. By that nature, it means that you cannot puta ton of pressure on it, otherwise, you’llbend it out and you can lose a fish duringa fight that way. It’ll just work itself open and the fish’llbreak free. Or those thin hooks, because it’s a 1 or 1/0hook, it doesn’t have a big bite to it andyou can literally rip the hook out of thefish’s mouth if you’re using stout gear orheavy line or your equipment isn’t matchedproperly. You could end up losing a lot of fish thatway. And that’s part of the frustration a lot ofpeople have with the drop shot is they losea lot of fish in this because, you know, theywanna blame the hook or something like that. It’s because they don’t have matched equipment. So let’s talk about that a little bit. Because we’re using these small hooks thefirst thing you wanna do is use a light line. I’m using 6. 2-pound Seaguar Fluorocarbon Finesseline. Yup, 6. 2-pound. That’s weird. Why 6. 2-pounds?Well, couple things. First of all, Seaguar, they invented fluorocarbonfishing line. And because of that, they create their ownresin that’s made specifically for fluorocarbonfishing line. They are in control of that. They don’t buy it from a third party likeother line manufacturers do. They make their own. They manufacture their own lines. So they are 100% in control of quality controlthe whole way. Because of that, they can make any pound theywant. In this case, 6. 2-pound is what I like becauseit offers that real flexibility, allows thebait to move naturally in the water. It’s not stiff. It allows it to bend and flex. It’s got super sensitivity to it, which youneed because the bite is gonna be subtle. So any kind of sensitivity that you can gleanand put it in your favor, that’s what youneed, and that’s what fluorocarbon does. Fluorocarbon also is heavy. So it doesn’t have any buoyancy to it. So it is neutral. As far as the bait’s concerned, it’s not gonnaimpede the action of that bait. Whereas braid, on the other hand, braid’sbuoyant. You’re gonna get a bow on the line, it’s gonnaimpede the action of that bait because itpulls back on it. It doesn’t allow it to flow freely. Plus it’s no stretch whatsoever. And on a light wire hook, that’s exactly theopposite of what you want. You want a little stretch and give when you’refighting the fish so you don’t bend that hookout. And braid will do that. I don’t care if you’re using a six-pound braidor not. It doesn’t stretch. And that’s a characteristic you don’t wantwhen you’re using light hooks. So I don’t even use braid at all. Like, I don’t have, like, a leader on it oranything like that because it defeats thepurpose of using the fluorocarbon. I use some backing on here with braid, soI don’t have to use all fluorocarbon becausethat’s expensive. So I’ll maybe use 60, 80 yards of fluorocarbonline with braid backing. But I’m not using, like, braid line with aleader, if that makes any sense. Because I want to use the advantages thatfluorocarbon has for finesse fishing. So that’s why I’m using 6. 2-pound line. Any heavier line, and it starts to impedethe action of the bait. Seven-pound, 8-pound, 10-pound, it’s justa little too wirey and the bait doesn’t getto flow as freely as it should. So a six-pound line works really well fordrop shot. The rod itself is a medium-light powered,moderate action rod. Lots of bend and flex to it. I don’t know if you can see that or not. I can bring this down a little bit, but, boy,it’s got a lot of flex to it. That’s what you want. It acts kind of like a spring. It kinda gives, when that fish surges, whenyou’re fighting them back to the boat, itgives. It doesn’t pull back on the fish, which is,again, can cause a problem with the hook. So you need that real light action. It’s gonna work in concert with that linewhen that fish takes off and runs, it’s gonnagive a little bit, let that fish go. And that’s why I’m using spinning gear here. Spinning gears, the drag is this way. The discs are over here. So they’re bigger discs and that way, theyhave greater surface area. So by nature, they have a smoother drag. And that’s what you want or something likethis, a nice smooth drag. When that fish makes that run, you want anice, steady, slow pull. You don’t want to go because that’s just gonnawork the hook loose when the fish is fighting. So a good, strong, steady drag is what youneed for this type of deal, for drop shotfishing. And then here I just got a teardrop-shapeddrop shot weight. It’s on a little swivel so it doesn’t getsnagged as much. Doesn’t have to be a swivel, but I like tohave a little swivel on it. This teardrop shape, now if I’m fishing inareas that have a little more rock in it,fishing deeper structure that’s a little morechunky rock, then I might go to a straightcylinder shape drop shot because it doesn’tget hung up as much in the rocks. But I will not fish rip rap. I’m gonna save you guys a lot of frustrationright now. Don’t fish drop shot and rip rap. You’re just gonna get frustrated because aboutevery other cast you’re gonna get stuck andyou’re probably gonna lose a lot of drop shotweights. So just don’t do it. Don’t fish rip rap, you know, chunk rock,that kind of stuff with drop shot. Other than that, it works very well in a lotof different areas. So speaking of that, now that you know therig and how to set it up, let’s go it. Come here. All right. Keri: He is not happy. Glenn: Here we go. Keri: What are you using, Glenn?Glenn: Drop shot finesse worm. All right. So again, you’re targeting something veryspecific, say a point or a rock pile. I don’t have one right here where I’m at,but I’m gonna try and demonstrate what I canbest I can. All you’re gonna do is you’re gonna throwit out there to that piece of structure andlet the bait fall all the way down. Just let it fall. And a lot of times, the bite will happen whileit’s falling. So you just wanna watch the line. Watch it very, very carefully. Be on point for this because you’ll just seea little twitch in your line, or it mightjump a little bit, or it might swim off toone side. Lot of times, it just starts falling fasterbecause the fish grabbed it and swimming awaywith it and the line just starts peeling offfaster. Those subtle things, that’s a bite becauseyou’re not gonna feel it because it’s fallingon slack line. So watch for that. If you see something like that occur, reeldown and set the hook. And you don’t pop it really hard because thehook’s already exposed to thin wire hooks. So you just lift. It’s just a quick pull. And yet the fish will be hooked. You don’t have to do anything harder thanthat. But once it hits the bottom, reel up on theslack and you want a straight connection. You want your line to be a nice straight connection,straight down to the bottom. And don’t do anything else. Just hold it tight and hold on to it. That’s it. You don’t wanna move it at this point. You may think the bait is just sitting therelimp and not doing anything, but actuallyit is. When you’re trying to hold your hand steadyfor two minutes, you can’t. You’re not a statue, so it won’t hold rocksolid. Your hand is moving and that’s transmittinglittle vibrations down the line. If there’s a little breeze, little waves arelapping up and hitting the line and it’s causinglittle vibrations down there and making thebait move. If there’s a little bit of current down there,it’s moving too. And you are moving. If you’re on a boat, you’re gonna be driftingjust a little bit and that weight is movingalong the bottom. All that is causing that bait to just shimmyin place and move around and look alive. This is why you’re using that light line withthat VMC Spinshot hook, is letting that baitmove naturally by itself. And you’re not imparting a whole lot of actionon it. You’re just letting it do its thing. And a lot of times, you get bit that way. This is where you need that sensitivity inthat line and in this rod because, again,the bites can be really soft. It might just get a little heavy, just loadup a bit, boom, you got a fish, set the thehook. Well, I’ll take it. Keri: And I’ll do the same. Glenn: He was right on the drop. Keri: Mine are right on the rock. Glenn: Right where he’s supposed to be. Keri: At least yours are getting bigger oryours are bigger. I guess he’s a little bit bigger than thelast one I caught. Little bit. Glenn: We doubled again, though they’re notbig ones, but, you know, it’s fun. Keri: That’s right. Glenn: Now, if I’ve been sitting here fora while and I get bored and I’m not catchingany fish doing that, then I might just tweakit just a little bit. I’ll just use my wrist and all I’m doing isI’m just shaking it just a little bit. I’m just moving it just like that. All I wanna do is I wanna see that line bounce. I don’t know if you could see it or not withthe camera. The line is just bouncing just a little bit. That’s all you’re trying to do, is get itto bounce. Your rod tip will bounce just a little bitbut look at this bait dance around. Look at this. I’m doing exactly what I just showed you. Look how much it’s dancing. See?It moves a lot, even though you may not thinkit is. It’s moving a lot and that’s what you want. You just give that little bit of motion toattract the nearby bass. It’s in that neutral to negative feeding mode,he sees something that’s alive, that’s moving,he’s gonna come check it out and he’s gonnaeat it. So that’s all you need to do. Once you’ve done that for a little while,you pause, you wait again, holding that linetight. You don’t get bit, shake a little bit more,wait, you don’t get bit, then you can liftup the rod and reposition that bait on thatpiece of structure and do it again. Rinse, lather, repeat. It’s the same process. It’s very slow and methodical. It can be boring if you’re on a piece of structurethat doesn’t have any fish and you’re notgetting bit, but at the same time, a lot oftimes, when the fish are in that negativeto neutral feeding mode, it’s the only thingthey want. That’s all they’re gonna do is they’ll bitesomething like this when nothing else willdo. In the summertime, I have a long leader likethis, 18 inches. You want it up off the bottom. The fish are roaming around a bit. They’re moving, so they’re gonna see it. So you want it up a bit. If I’m fishing some sparse vegetation, I mightgo longer because I want this bait to be upabove that vegetation where they can see it. So I’ll go longer. In the colder months and in the winter, I’llshorten it up. I’ll shorten that leader to maybe 8 or 10inches because the fish are closer to thebottom and they’re not willing to go up asmuch to chase a bait. Now, one other technique I like to use, bothsummer and wintertime, is offshore structurelike points, humps, ridges, rock piles workreally well for this, ledges. What I’ll do is I’ll throw it out there. This is in 15, 20-foot, even deeper water. In the dead of winter, I’m fishing 45 feetdeep. I’ll throw it out there and I’ll use the boatand the breeze to drag that bait over thatcover. So in those instances, all I’m doing is I’vejust got my rod out here and I just got myrod tip down towards the water, almost touchingthe water, and I’m just dragging it real slow. If there’s no wind at all, I’ll put the trollingmotor maybe on 10 to 20, somewhere in there. Real slow drift over that cover. In that instances, then I will use a littlebit longer. . . even if it’s dead of winter,use a longer tagging like this because, yousee, you’ve got a bottom like this, you’rein an angle, right?So even though you’ve got a long tag end,the bait’s only just far off the bottom. So keep that in mind. Use a little bit longer if you’re gonna dragthat technique. But that is really deadly in the wintertimeor in the dead of summer when the fish arein those deeper, deeper structure areas, they’renot willing to bite, you can just drift overit and just take your rod tip and give ita little shake every now and then while you’redrifting over it and they grab it, take offwith it. It’s great way of fishing. Not super exciting because it’s not superaggressive, but a lot of times that’s theonly way the fish are gonna bite. And you better know how to do this techniquewhen that’s the only way they’re gonna biteit. So that’s drop shotting 101. I hope that helps. For more tips and tricks like this, visitBassResource. com.